Showing posts with label fashion business. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion business. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Demi Or Not Demi - That Is The Question

(photo from the Huffpo)

Another potential photoshop folly?
From New York Magazine
Now, cover conspiracy theorists on blogs Oh No They Didn't and Pop Culture Madness suggest W Photoshopped Demi's face onto the body of Anja Rubik, as shot on the runway in the spring 2010 Balmain show.

I don't know. It certainly looks possible from the photographic evidence
On the other hand, Demi Moore has a rocking hot body in her own right
What do you think?
And, does it even matter if fashion magazines use body doubles?
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Thursday, October 15, 2009

Comment of the Year - Can Lauren Go Any Lower


Yes...I love all my commentors
but this has to be the comment of the year
But I guess if your a 5'2" inch designer that looks like a haggard garden gnome, that's ok.
and that kind of says it all about Ralph Lauren
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Too Large For Ralph Lauren

Again, we get another story of the Fashion industry at its finest


So our story is about gorgeous model Fillipa Hamilton, now 23
who has been modeling for Ralph Lauren since she was 15 Years old
Fillipa Hamilton, for me at least, seemed to have that quintessential "Ralph Lauren Look"
you know, healthy, sporty, all American

And she seemed to look OK with most of her clothes off too

But for some reason, the Ralph Lauren people
decided to over photoshop and distort her image in this ad
so that her head looks bigger than her waist
According to the Times Online
Miss Hamilton had this to say
'I've been working with them since I was 15 years old, so I considered them my second family,' the 5ft 10in beauty said. 'I was very hurt about this.'
Miss Hamilton claims she was fired in April - before the digitally- altered images of her were released.
'I saw my face in this extremely skinny girl - which is not me,' she recalled.
'It makes me sad. It makes me think that Ralph Lauren wants to have this kind of image - and it's not healthy, it's not right.
'And it's not a good example. When you see this picture young women will look at this and think it's normal, and it's not.
So...the next time you go shopping and start perusing clothes from the Ralph Lauren line
Keep this in mind
If they think this girl is too fat to represent the brand
what must they think of the way that their actual real life customers look.
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Thursday, July 30, 2009

The Wintour of our Discontent - Let's Hope Not

From Page Six

HAS Anna Wintour finally gone power crazy? That's what some fashion insiders are wondering this week after the Vogue editor in chief suggested a retail-sales strategy which some said amounted to industry price-fixing.

At a Tuesday "town hall" meeting hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, designers like
Donna Karan and Elie Tahari lamented steep markdowns that have plagued profits since last fall, The Post's James Covert reports.
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"Could someone lead a committee that would make ground rules for retailers when the discounting starts, and then all the retailers can agree to it?" Wintour asked.

When CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg pointed out, "That's illegal," Wintour said: "Is that something we can change? We have friends in the White House now."

According to a Vogue spokesman, Wintour was merely alluding to designated days for retail discounts that are already in place in certain countries including France and the United Kingdom.
"That may be OK over there," says Vano Haroutunian, a New York lawyer focused on the apparel industry. "But here, it sounds like collusion."


After a flurry of blog postings yesterday, CFDA executive director Steven Kolb downplayed the brouhaha, saying Wintour's comments were part of a "brainstorm." For example, designer Betsey Johnson suggested staging a fashion show at Madison Square Garden.

Nevertheless, Wintour's legendary power over the industry is matched only by her zeal to "push the envelope," according to one fashion insider. "Either the idea was crazy or it was brilliant, but it wasn't 100 percent crazy," our source said.

I am a great admirer of Anna Wintour and I admire what she does for the fashion industry.
And I'm so glad that she has "friends in the White House now".

But collusion is not the answer to what's going wrong in the fashion business.
Markdowns need to be at the retailer's discretion, not at a time designated by a committee or the government.
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Friday, July 3, 2009

A Day In The Life

Another day....another fashion shoot.

After my favorite stylist, Angela Aaron, a Dita von Teese look-a-like, asked Beladora to provide jewelry for another fashion shoot for Genlux magazine, I was happy to oblige.
Genlux is the sleekest magazine out there when it comes to high end fashion.

So Miss de Ville and I brought the goods


and admired the jewel toned clothes from Neiman Marcus


I couldn't stay all day because there was much to do at Beladora HQ so I left Miss de Ville with the goods.
I did though stay long enough to watch one of the shots involving the model posing on a mirror.
Here is a shot of the stylists making adjustments with the models hair and dress.

and here is the photographer getting ready to start shooting.


And here is the picture from the computer monitor...I love the software that allows you to watch each photo come up on the big monitor as the photographer is shooting....very cool.
I'm looking forward to the Fall issue!
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Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Dior Diamonds Disappear But Laughing Lohan Not On The Lam

From the Daily Mail
Police probe as £250,000 Dior diamonds worn by Lindsay Lohan in photoshoot vanish

Lindsay Lohan will be 'happy to co-operate' with police investigating a £250,000 alleged jewellery theft, her spokesman said today.
The 22-year-old actress may be questioned by Scotland Yard about the gems, which went missing after she modelled them during a London photoshoot.


Jewellery is often loaned out for big celebrities to wear on fashion shoots.
A source said: 'Police are working out who had them when they went missing. People at Dior are very upset. It's an embarrassment to the mag.'

Fashion magazine Elle said in a statement that it had no reason to believe that Lohan was in any way linked to the alleged theft.
Yesterday, Lindsay didn't seem worried by the controversy as she updated her Twitter page with a topless photo of herself, with her blonde extensions covering her breasts.
She told her followers: 'OLD PHOTOS. I'm THAT bored.'

Having lent out jewelry for photo shoots from time to time can I make a suggestion to Christian Dior?

Send one of your peeps along on the shoot to keep an eye on the goods.

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Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Red Carpet Wonderlands

From Forbes.com

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's annual Costume Institute Gala is known as the Oscars of Fashion. This year, sparkly minis were favored, big ball gowns few and far between. Of course, these ensembles don't come cheap.



Madonna
Dress: Louis Vuitton, $2,696

Thigh-high boots: Louis Vuitton, $3,785
Lambskin and stone gloves: Louis Vuitton, $770
Hat: Custom Louis Vuitton; $350 (est.)
Total cost: $7,601


Rose Byrne
Dress: Custom Marc Jacobs, $5,500 (est.)

Ring: Stephen Webster, $4,500
Clutch: Marc By Marc Jacobs, $300
Total cost: $10,300



Gisele Bündchen
Dress: Versace, $6,000 (est.)

Bag: Versace, $1,800 (est.)
Shoes: Versace, $1,000 (est.)
Total cost: $8,800

I'm amused by the fact Forbes needs to report on the cost of these red carpet looks.
Costs...what costs?
Celebrities get the entire outfits, including the jewelry, on loan....or gifted.
Do you think that they pay gift taxes on these outfits?

I love the way that red carpet events are like magical wonderlands for celebrities where entire outfits just appear as if almost out of nowhere...totally free.

What I wonder is this...if you had an unlimited budget would you have chosen these specific ensembles for the Costume Institute Gala?

OK...I admit...I'd take Madonna's thigh high boots and hat.
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Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Just Looking For A Good Deal


Every year on this day as I send my checks off to the black holes that are the federal and state governments, I wonder if there is a chance in hell that my hard earned money is being well spent.
Am I getting a good deal on my tax dollars?

Obviously, when I read things like
this and this and this
I don't think that I am.

So where do you get a good deal for your money?
Forbes.com reports on Where to Shop for Web Deals

Online retailers benefit from lower overhead. They spend less on real estate, labor and supplies, which means that they can charge less. When traditional retailers began to reduce their inventories back in the spring of 2008, online outlets were able to scoop up the extra goods from manufacturers at bargain prices.

Another advantage to consumers who buy online: quality. Some 80% of the inventory at brick-and-mortar outlets is designed especially for those stores, according to Marshal Cohen, chief retail expert at the NPD Group in Port Washington, N.Y. Often, the items sold in outlets are made from less expensive materials than what's on sale at traditional retailers. That's typically not the case online, where most of the goods are simply overstock.

The Forbes article mentions the usual suspects; Bluefly, Yoox and Overstock
I just can't understand why they didn't mention Beladora.com....
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Tuesday, April 14, 2009

French Vogue - A Hot Tranny Mess

Question: Has Carine Roitfeld replaced her gauloises with crack?



Just because French Vogue devotes the March issue to Chanel doesn't mean that the world needs to see this.
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Sunday, April 5, 2009

When Casual Dressing Is Serious Business


From the Wall Street Journal


Like Hollywood executives, Silicon Valley Tech Tycoons, hedge-fund chieftains are often the most casually dressed guys in the room (though their Seven jeans and untucked Lacostes cost as much as some suits).
But those dress codes don't apply to their female colleagues. It's a measure of the tremendous scrutiny that hedge-fund women face that they can't confidently imitate the men's "power casual" style.

"You're neither here nor there," says Kay Garkusha, who worked at a small Connecticut hedge fund until December. "You can't dress like the guys and you can't dress like the other women who are in support roles."
I'm a little confused here...if you are intelligent enough to get into the hedgefund business....wouldn't you be savvy enough to make reasonably intelligent choices with your wardrobe? Couldn't you redefine "power casual" to be somewhere in between jeans and brioni?
Clothes signal our position at the table. For instance, buy-side executives, as Wall Street's consumers, can afford to under-dress the sell-siders, who are more often expected to suit up to help close a sale.
For women, who have more clothing choices than men, the risk of a mistake is magnified. Just ask Michelle Obama about the peril of bare arms. There's a steady debate about whether former Lehman executive Erin Callan's heels were too sexy.
Wouldn't common sense dictate that you don't wear sky high Lamboutins with their sexy red underside while in the office or out with clients, just as you wouldn't wear a skirt that is too tight, or a blouse that shows décolletage.
Still, it's possible to reduce such risks by considering what clothes mean to the people around us. Our clothes at work needn't express our true inner selves. Instead, they can express our ability to contribute or take charge.
If you work in a creative profession such as entertainment, advertising, fashion or the arts, pretty much anything goes...as long as it is chic. Mixed patterns, sky high platforms, animal prints, arms full of bangle bracelets, can all look appropriate.
Double standards show up in many fields all over the country, but none more than the testosterone-charged world of Wall Street. There, women are still fighting for access to executive levels in an atmosphere where men also dissect each others' wardrobes for minute suggestions of power or weakness.
If you are interviewing for a job or in front of clients, not matter what your quantitative abilities, an overly chic outfit implies that you care more about your wardrobe than do about your business.
It isn't fair, but neither is life.
One experienced hedge-fund executive, sharply dressed in a Brioni suit the other night, related her experience interviewing for jobs in a suit paired with boots rather than pumps. She didn't get a single call back to a second interview when she wore the boots. If you consider clothes as symbols, a possible explanation emerges: Boots with heels are sexy, with a hint of dominatrix. While that message might be subtle enough for everyday work, our antennae are more sensitive in job interviews, where there's no room for risk.
Boots to an interview? Only in a blizzard, and maybe not even then.
Collars on a shirt or jacket convey authority. Flat shoes can suggest a girlish lack of authority; if you wear them, choose flats with some hardware and avoid the ballet look. As for stockings, the debate rages on, but if your primary audience is over 50, they may feel more comfortable with them.
Even though my profession is dominated by men, my job doesn't entail dressing to assert my authority. On the rare occasion when I do need to meet with clients my outfit is always the same, a black suit, black sheath dress or black pencil skirt and white button down shirt, black pumps, black handbag, South Sea Pearls or a vintage brooch (serious not whimsical), and a classic (and large) wristwatch.
How hard is it to put together this type of wardrobe?
Women have worked so hard to get to the top of the food chain.
I just hate to see fashion designers, editors and stylists promoting the kind of trendy dressing that keeps the fashion industry employed and the women outside of the industry in the purgatory of never making it to managing partner.
Does your job require some level of power dressing and if so what do you wear?
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Thursday, April 2, 2009

Fashion Biz - Prada in Peril?

Rem Koolhaas designed Prada Store on Rodeo Drive


Prada May Reorganize Debt to Fund New Stores as Sales Suffer
April 2 (Bloomberg) -- Prada SpA’s owners may ask banks to reorganize 1.2 billion euros ($1.6 billion) of debt, freeing cash to open new stores and promote the luxury label’s brands in the recession, two people with knowledge of the plans said.
Sales at stores open at least a year fell in 2008, reducing Prada’s cash on hand, while earnings declined as fixed costs rose, the people said. The Milan-based company may ask for some debt payment deadlines to be extended, they said, asking not to be identified because the plans are confidential.

Luxury labels are taking different approaches to expansion as a five-year industry boom crumbles, depending on their access to cash. Kelly bag maker Hermes International SCA vows to open or refurbish 20 stores in 2009, while jeweler Bulgari SpA has put new stores on hold and will close some outlets. Sanford C. Bernstein analyst Luca Solca forecasts the industry’s sales will fall as much as 15 percent this year.
“Unlike in previous recessions, luxury brands are contracting, though the biggest names are suffering less,” Moody’s Leschiutta said.


To raise the brand’s profile, Prada is building an exhibition space in Seoul, designed by architect Rem Koolhaas, that can be flipped by cranes to change shape for new events.

I love the store architecture and design by Rem Koolhaas, but is it really necessary for Prada to raise its brand profile? Seriously, who doesn't know about Prada?

Maybe instead of spending so much on the build out of the stores...although I love buildings that can change shape for events...they could lower prices slightly and increase their sales.
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Monday, March 23, 2009

Luxe For Less - Managing Margins Down

From Jeanine Poggi in Forbes.com
Fashion Deflation
The recession is prompting clothing makers and retailers to lower prices.



There's some good news for shoppers amid the economic gloom: Lower clothing prices are coming soon, and not just for sale items. Mainstream brands such as Lacoste and Coach plan to cut retail prices as much as 30% on their fall offerings.
The reason: Fashion producers are trying to anticipate consumers' tighter budgets and avoid last year's drastic markdowns, which can undercut a brand's perceived strength. "The 70% discounts we saw during the holiday season are risky not just for brand integrity but brand equity," says Erwan Rambourg, luxury and sporting goods analyst at HSBC.



As a defensive action, clothing makers are tightening belts, making do with lower profit margins and passing along the cuts to consumers in the form of lower retail prices.


OK...so mid level brands are lowering their margins, which is great for consumers, but what about luxury brands?


It's highly unlikely that you will see these reductions at true luxury players such as Louis Vuitton and Cartier. "These brands offer classics, and if Cartier doesn't sell one of its watches today, they can still sell it six months from now," notes Rambourg.
Roger Kowall, owner of Ohio-based men's boutique Cuffs, says suppliers such as Hermès, Loro Piana and Brioni have maintained their prices for the fall. Burberry and Bally also say prices will remain steady.
"Luxury is all about perceived value," Rambourg observes. "If you lower prices you take away that 'wow' effect, which is what defines luxury."


While luxury may be all about perceived value, I have to differ with Mr. Rambourg on the price reductions on luxury goods.

While price reductions my not be published, I know that you can walk into any Cartier store in the US and get an immediate reduction on a Cartier watch. These stores desperately need to move product and manage their cash flow.

Perhaps a one of a kind piece of jewelry will never be discounted, but a stock item will be discounted 10-20%. I wouldn't be surprised if you can also get a discount on the Cartier "Love Bracelet"...although who would buy one new when you purchase one pre-owned at a discount.

Even with brick and mortar stores lowering margins, internet businesses, will continue to be the best places to shop, because you can shop at your own convenience from your own home, not be pressured by sales staff to make a purchase and avoid ridiculous retail markups.

This is what I'm liking now online. I don't need a branded item for the "wow" effect.


Black Onyx and Diamond Earrings from Beladora2.com $395


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Sunday, March 8, 2009

The Beginning Of The End?



From the Wall Street Journal

BUSINESS
MARCH 6, 2009
Luxury-Handbag Designer Seeks Bankruptcy Protection


Luxury-handbag designer Lambertson Truex LLC sought bankruptcy protection Thursday, unable to sustain its three upscale metropolitan outlets amid waning demand for its pricey leather accessories.
The company -- known for its $3,000 to $5,000 handbags made of exotic skins such as alligator and python -- once had stores on Madison Avenue in New York, Melrose Place in Los Angeles and in the Palazzo hotel in Las Vegas. It was forced to shut down two of its locations late last month after seeing its profits ravaged by the downturn in consumer spending.


Mr. Dembsky believes the brand could hold significant appeal for potential purchasers. The company began "actively marketing" its assets before running out of credit but is now being forced to continue its search for a buyer in bankruptcy court, according to court documents.
Lambertson Truex LLC reported debts ranging from $10 million to $50 million and assets ranging from $1 million to $10 million in its bankruptcy filing.


Is this the beginning of the end of the "It" bag?
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Friday, February 20, 2009

Fall RTW 2009 - Retreating From The Runway


Is it enough to have Anna Wintour as a fan?

After a season of silliness to sumptuousness on the New York runways
the Wall Street Journal reports on Peter Som who seems to be the only designer
who understands that fashion is a business.

Living on the Edge in World of Fashion
Designer Peter Som Sits Out New York Fashion Week, Illustrating How a Solid Reputation Doesn't Pay the Bills


Mr. Som, who has been in business for almost 10 years, is one of several Vogue-stamped young designers who thus far have survived the fickle world of fashion design. In 2004 he was a semifinalist in the first CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund initiative, which supports and promotes young designers. In 2007, he took on a second job as the designer for Bill Blass, where he was tasked with adding some sizzle to the storied but dusty American fashion house. His shows, a highlight of Fashion Week, garnered big sponsorships from companies including American Express and Mercedes-Benz.

But in an industry built on illusions, appearances are deceiving. Like most emerging fashion houses, Mr. Som's business, even at its height, barely broke even. Until last year, when a private-equity investor paid $3 million for a 65% stake in the company, Mr. Som and his business partner, Chief Executive Elana Posner, never paid themselves salaries.

Ms. Posner, a former corporate lawyer and Web entrepreneur, says that the entire fashion industry "is in survival mode."

Really? Not from what I could see in the runway shows.


In a nod to the times, Mr. Som, is sitting out Fashion Week this season and putting on a small presentation in his showroom instead.

Mr. Som says his eight-person company is responding to the headwinds by becoming "a leaner, meaner machine." He has already dipped into a rainy day fund that his parents, both architects, socked away for him.
Mr. Som and Ms. Posner will face a crucial test in the next few weeks, when they negotiate financing to produce their fall line. The company has received a few calls from potential investors and is meeting with one this week.

For now, Mr. Som is preparing to show his pared-down fall collection containing 16 looks, compared with about 35 in previous seasons. Ms. Posner is lowering price points by at least 20%, partly by pushing their New York factories to give her cheaper rates. A jacquard pleated skirt will cost $695 at retail, compared with $850 for a similar style for fall 2008.

I am a big fan of Peter Som. He is tremendously talented and I hope that by lowering his prices and going into "survival mode" his company will thrive.

As for a few other brands... like Miss Sixty....I can't say that I would be too disappointed if they didn't make it through the recession.

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Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Fall 2009 RTW - Miss Sixty Missed It

It's getting ugly out there...and I don't mean the economy.
After looking at the Fall 2009 RTW collections I've been faced with a dilemma....
Which collection was my least favorite?
There were so many unflattering details spread throughout the many collections that it was indeed hard to make a decision.
Until I saw Miss Sixty.
Acid Wash with Boa?

Acid Wash Encore and What's Up With The Model's Boobs?

Over Corseted, Bad Animal Prints and Dynasty Worthy Shoulders?


Mad Max Vinyl Princess?

Today, the Miss Sixty brand is shown in the Guggenheim Museum in New York City in the United States. They also launched their first fashion show in New York in 2006. In all, the Sixty
Group employs over 1,500 people and is highly respected within the world of fashion. The company is known for its quality and willingness to experiment with design, as well as its unique approach to fashion and its level of creativity. As such, the line of clothing has been described as having a strong identity and versatile personality that distinguishes it from other clothing lines..
(versatile personality?....I'm thinking more along the lines of a personality disorder)

Seriously, I don't know how the models kept from cracking up on the runway in these less than Guggenheim Museum worthy outfits. (It looks like they weren't in on the joke)

Other than the leather leggings/boots... would you wear any of these clothes?
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Sunday, February 1, 2009

Curves on the Couture Catwalk?

Linda Grant posted this week about Jean Paul Gaultier using 51 year old Ines de la Fressange, former Chanel muse and face of the iconic Marianne, on the catwalk for his couture show.

She looks pas mal.
Non?
I especially like this remark

Fashion models “are not just 14-year-olds,” Mr. Gaultier said later. “There are no [age] barriers to beauty.” The French designer explained that the curvy Ms. de la Fressange embodied the sexuality demanded his raunchy Spanish themed show, which also featured high-waisted pinstripe pants for women, suspenders and elbow-length gloves.

Curvy?

Compared to who exactly?

Oh...you mean the model for the Akris print ad.


Because you can't have enough of Concentration Camp Chic!
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Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Just Another Day At The Office - NOT!

Well, I'd like to tell you that it was another day at the office...but it wasn't.

Today the jewely divas were off to a photo shoot for Genlux, the premier luxury fashion magazine of Southern California.

The shoot had everything you would have imagined from a drop dead gorgeous stylist who could have been Dita Von Teese's doppelganger to teh usual hair, make-up and associated fashionistas to a rocking cool photographer with all the accoutrements including a fog machine.

Here's a photo of just one rack of the wardrobe which included some of the prettiest spring frocks from Valentino to Catherine Maldonado.

And let's not overlook the choices of accessories with sky-high heeled shoes, arty hats and a sword...because you never know when you might need a sword.

Of course there was plenty of Beladora bling.
Here's a photo of 3 of the 10 trays of Beladora vintage jewlery.


And let's not forget the money shot.
Here's the model who was all of 13 or 14 years old.
I kid you not. She was in 8th grade.
(God knows this is LA... but would a 16 or 17 year old not been fresh enough for a high fashion shoot?)
But she was so sweet and adorable and TALL and she showed off the goods.
I'm just giving you a little peek of the pretty girl because I don't want you to miss the full effect of her all dressed up in $10,000 worth of clothes and $100,000 worth of vintage Art Deco jewelry that will be in the March issue.
If you don't live in Pacific Palisades, Brentwood, Bel Air, Beverly Hills, San Marino, Newport Beach, Laguna Beach or Monarch Beach, you might not get this magazine at your doorstep so look for it at you local newstand or Borders Book Store.
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Monday, December 29, 2008

The Return To Reason, Decency and Discretion

From the same Time Online article, not all the news is bad.

Not everyone is suffering to the same degree. Swiss watchmakers have been hardest hit but Hermès, the Paris leather goods and silk-square company, has seen its share price rise by nearly 16 per cent this year and expects its sales to grow by about 10 per cent.
Some in the trade believe they are facing a harsh future after a decade in which greed and easy money led to hubris.
And here's the money quote
Alain Nemarq, the chairman of Mauboussin, the prestige jewellery firm, said that the world of luxury had gone wild in pursuit of the idea that nothing could be too expensive and no profit margin too exorbitant. “The pursuit of exclusive trophies ... is finished,” he wrote in Le Figaro last week. “We will now return to reason, decency and discretion.”
We can only hope so.
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Times Are Tough In Luxury Land

From the Times Online
Even fashion giants Chanel and LVMH forced to economise

Until recently, France's marques de grand luxe were claiming immunity from the slump. Demand for the high end was holding up, driven by the luxury appetites of the nouveaux riches of Russia, China and other emerging powers, they said.
The denial has faded over the past month as Russians and Asians have been noticeably absent over Christmas from the boutiques in the Paris golden triangle off the Champs Élysées and their equivalents in London and New York. Business in Japan has slumped.
A week ago Chanel, privately owned and secretive about its affairs, called off a glitzy art show as it was about to arrive in London from New York. Over the weekend trade unions reported that the fashion house was to lay off all of its 200 Paris staff who are on fixed-term or temporary contracts.



Chanel Pre-Fall 2009

Chanel Pre-Fall 2009


Somehow I'm not surprised by this. Even the trophy wives of Russian oligarchs and Chinese mega moguls, must have better taste than to buy into these overpriced outfits from Chanel.

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